If you are just dipping your toes into the wonderful world of watches, hearing terms like "automatic", "mechanical", and "caliber" may be intimidating. To the uninitiated, these words may mean nothing, but to those in the watch community, they are the keystone of what makes a watch a watch.
Almost every type of watch and clock, minus sundials and water clocks for example, contain a part called a movement (or caliber). The movement of a watch can be compared to an engine. All the parts that make up the movement have to work in harmony to keep the watch running and accurate.
Modern watch movements come in three categories:
Both manual wind and automatic movements are considered mechanical movements, while quartz is battery operated.
All three movements have their pros and cons. Some enthusiasts prefer certain movements over others, while others appreciate each of them for what they are.
The first watches, as we know them today, date back to the 16th century and have this type of movement. As the name implies, a manual wind movement requires someone to manually wind it. This is achieved by turning the crown (the knob on the side of a wristwatch or on the top of a pocket watch). When the watch is wound enough, the seconds hand will begin to move.
Manual wind watches contain many parts, sometimes hundreds depending on the complications (special features such as a chronometer, tachometer, day/date) the watch may have. These movements are typically made by certified watchmakers who spend years perfecting their craft. Their keen eyes and steady hands allow them to create intricate movements all by hand.
While the manual wind watch has fallen out of popularity with most modern watch brands, it is still common in vintage watches. Vintage watch enthusiasts can determine a watch's authenticity based on the serial number and the types of movements inside.
At a glance, they can tell if the watch is original or has had a new movement installed.
Unlike an automatic watch, a manual wind watch needs to be wound daily to keep accurate time. It does not contain certain parts an automatic watch does that allows it to store energy. If you are winding a manual watch, pay close attention to how many times you turn the crown.
If you begin to feel tension, stop! Over-winding a manual watch may damage the movement, which can require costly repairs.
Automatic watches are similar to manual wind movements, with a few differences that make them stand out. Inside an automatic movement is a small weight called a rotor. When you wear the watch, the rotor swings freely and transfers energy into the watch.
Nearly every automatic watch has a component called a power reserve, which stores excess energy that allows the watch to keep ticking once it's been taken off the wrist. Some automatic watches have power reserves that last over a week.
These movements are common in todays market and are favoured by many enthusiasts as an updated and improved version of manual wind movements. For those who like the history of watches but also the convenience of not having to wind their timepieces daily, an automatic watch is an excellent choice.
Automatic movements can be found at all price ranges, but be aware that you get what you pay for. A cheap Ali Express watch may look great, but it may only last a few months before you have to get it repaired. Brands like Seiko, Hamilton, and Orient are established brands that offer warranties on their watches and have models that won't break the bank.
On the surface, it can be difficult to tell if a watch movement is manual wind or automatic. Shake the watch gently for 5-10 seconds. If it starts to run, it's an automatic. If it doesn't, it's a manual wind. Some watches have what's called an open case back (sometimes referred to as an exhibition case back).
On the back of the watch is a small window that allows you to see the movement inside. If you move the watch around and see a flat piece (typically 1/2 to 1/3 the size of the window) moving around, that's the weighted rotor found in automatic pieces.
On Christmas day in 1969, the Seiko corporation released a watch that would revolutionize the watch industry as we know it: The Seiko Astron. This watch was the catalyst to what would be known as the quartz crisis during the 1970s and early 1980s.
During this time, many watchmakers were forced out of business, went bankrupt, or were bought out. They could not keep up with the low production costs of a quartz watch. The few that did survive, did by the skin of their teeth.
Quartz watches came with several advantages over the manual wind and automatic movements. Not only were they more accurate, but they were cheaper and easier to repair, and you didn't need to wind them. Gone were the complex movements of the past, swapped out for a simple battery and only a handful of parts.
Inside a quartz watch sits a small battery that sends an electrical charge through a circuit to a small piece of quartz crystal. This crystal vibrates at over 32,768 times a second when it senses an electrical charge. A piece called a stepping motor takes only the 32,768th vibration and sends it to another part called the dial train.
The dial train then moves the seconds hand 1/60th of the way around the watch face. That's the "tick" you hear when you put your ear up to a quartz watch or clock.
A quartz watch should still be serviced. It's best to get the battery replaced as soon as possible after it stops in order to prevent corrosion and battery leaks. Depending on the watch and the complications, a battery should last anywhere from 12 months to several years.
Some people believe that pulling the crown out of their quartz watch can help extend battery life. While this sounds good in theory, the battery still depletes even when the movement isn't engaged. We explain this in our article Should You Pull The Crown Out Of Your Quartz Watch To Save Battery Life?
The easiest and most effective way to tell if a watch has a mechanical or quartz movement is to watch the seconds hand. If it's a manual wind or automatic, the seconds hand will move smoothly across the dial (depending on the movement, usually 4-10 times a second). A quartz watch will tick once every second.
If you want to keep your watches running well and ticking for years to come, we highly suggest you read the following articles that cover numerous care tips that you may not know about, including:
All three watch movements have their pros and cons. If you want a reliable, affordable watch, a quartz may be for you. If you are in the market for something a bit fancier, an automatic movement is the movement of choice.
If you like vintage style, a manual wind is perfect. A good watch collector will have a variety of movements and styles to suit their fancy. Don't settle on just one until you've tried them all.
If you would like to know how many watches a gentleman needs and some examples, please read our article How Many Watches Does A Modern Gentleman Need?
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