Fragrance Review: Sartorial By Penhaligon's

Inspired by bespoke tailors on Savile Row, Sartorial by Penhaligon's is a fragrance that evokes imagery of skilled clothiers meticulously measuring, cutting, and stitching the finest of fabrics inside a back room of a small, cozy vintage store.

This 2010 release focuses on refinement and sophistication rather than being a wall of brutish masculinity that will cause everyone within a 10-foot radius instantly grow beards and become lumberjacks.

The Penhaligon's brand is no stranger to style and nobility. Established in 1870, they have been creating high-quality fragrances since 1872. They were granted a Royal Warrant by Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh, in 1956 and a second Royal Warrant by Prince of Wales, Charles III (now King Charles III), in 1988.

With over 100 fragrances to choose from, there is a Penhaligon's scent for everyone.

Who Is Behind It? 

Sartorial was lovingly crafted by French perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour. Mr. Duchaufour has been working in the fragrance industry since 1985 and has over 380 fragrances to his name at the time this article was published.

Mr. Duchaufour has a love for incense and tends to include it in many of his creations. Some of his other works include Blu Mediterraneo – Cipresso di Toscana by Acqua di Parma, both Jubilation 40 Man and Jubilation XXV Man by Amouage, and Enchanted Forest by The Vagabond Prince.

Note Breakdown:

Sartorial by Penhaligon's is an eau de toilette.

Top notes: Aldehydes, black pepper, cardamom, ginger, metallic notes, neroli, violet leaf, water notes

Middle notes: Beeswax, cyclamen, lavender, leather, lime, linden blossom

Packaging:

Note: The box and bottle used in this review is of the new packaging.

Sartorial comes in a dark grey rectangular cardboard box decorated with chalk stripes on all side.

The front of the box features the name of the fragrance in gold letters, the concentration (eau de toilette) below it, a silver needle and gold thread, and "Penhaligon's" in white with a pair of gold scissors behind it near the bottom.

The bottle volume is also displayed as is a mystery emblem we can't seem to figure out. (RS 1870, SR 1870? If anyone knows what it means, please let us know!)

The bottom of the box features the ingredients, Penhaligon's information, the barcode, and the batch number. The top of the box has the Penhaligon's emblem and states the name of the company in gold lettering.

If you follow the gold thread around to the back of the box, you will see it comes from a gold vintage Singer sewing machine. The tailor-themed motifs on the box let you know that this is indeed Sartorial.

The box opens from the top. The fragrance is nested inside black corrugated cardboard used to prevent the fragrance from damage during transport.

The bottle of Sartorial has a transparent sphere that sits on its gold cap. One feature that is common across fragrances in Penhaligon's British Tales and Trade Routes Collection lines are the small, decorative bows on the cap. This bottle has a dark grey bow with white horizontal lines and a black border.

Sartorial comes in a clear, rounded, rectangular bottle with a dark grey label on the front with all of the same text as the front of the box it comes in. The back of the bottle is imprinted with "Penhaligon's London".

Opening:

Sartorial opens with a blend of aldehydes, citrus, lavender, and neroli. This immediately brings to mind a vintage barbershop. It reminds me a bit of No. 89 by Floris but with more notes joining in on this olfactory sensation.

A somewhat sharp metallic note is detectable in the opening as well. It isn't overpowering by any means, just distinct. I want to say it is flint but I could be wrong.

With every few sniffs, I get traces of aquatic salty sea breeze and honey. This is offset by a baking spice mixture of black pepper, cardamom, and ginger.

Development:

As the fragrance begins to settle I notice a distinct smell of beeswax. Some reviewers say they smell honey, but this is definitely beeswax to my nose. This is a lovely addition to the vintage barbershop scent from the opening.

Cedar and suede also make an appearance during the first 10-15 minutes of applying this fragrance. The cedar is soft and the suede has a very slight animalic musk to it but nothing that tramples over all of the other notes that ebb and flow as this scent develops.

Drydown:

Cedar, oakmoss, patchouli, and vetiver combined with the spices I mentioned earlier give Sartorial a lovely fougère profile, similar to some of the classy, masculine scents that were popular in the 1980s. That being said, it by no means makes Sartorial smell dated.

I also smell some warm vanilla and almond base notes. This is likely a combination of resins and tonka bean with the cedar and other woody notes found in Sartorial.

Performance: 

I applied three sprays of Sartorial directly to my neck. Although not a powerhouse like some other fragrances we have reviewed, it projected at an arm's length for about 15-30 minutes before becoming an elbow's length scent.

It remained as an elbow's-length scent for a couple of hours before transitioning to a near-skin scent. The scent trail it left behind remained suspended in the air for a few seconds before dissipating.

Sartorial remained a near-skin scent for around 7-8 hours before it became almost completely unnoticeable. For a fragrance like this, you definitely want to be discovered, not announced. It does not need to be loud or obtrusive to get attention.

When To Wear Sartorial By Penhaligon's 

Sartorial is best suited, pun intended, for occasions when you put on your finest garments and take that extra few minutes to ensure every detail is perfect. Think sunny afternoons at a country club, an opulent wedding, or strolling down Savile Row admiring all the bespoke items in the shops.

Because of its lighter floral and woody notes, this fragrance is best suited for daytime wear and warmer evenings. In my opinion, this is a fragrance that could be worn year-round except on the coldest of days.

Who Is This Fragrance For? 

Sartorial is for the discerning gentleman who appreciates skilled craftsmanship and has an impeccable eye for detail. Someone who understands the power of a well-fitted suit and the confidence that goes along with it. 

Although Sartorial works best while dressed up, it can be worn as a signature scent for a young entrepreneur or person moving up the rungs of their career ladder. A younger nose may not like the opening due to the vintage barbershop profile, but they may grow to appreciate it as it develops.

This scent profile will be appreciated by someone who already has experience in the fragrance world. Someone just beginning their journey may not be able to fully appreciate the bouquet of scents hitting their nose or be able to pick out the nuances that make up Sartorial.

Overall Thoughts On Sartorial By Penhaligon's 

Sartorial by Penhaligon's is a complex, sophisticated scent with timeless appeal. This scent is sculpted around all things gentlemanly and refined. It is not re-inventing the wheel, but, like most styles, it combines different elements from different eras and creates something harmonious from it.

Like most Penhaligon's fragrances, Sartorial comes with a hefty price tag. We recommend sampling it from an authorized retailer or finding a decanter of it online before committing to a full bottle.

Interested In Other Fragrance Reviews? Check Out:

Classic 1920 by Bois 1920 - Italian countryside in a bottle. Lavender, florals, soft woods, and a bit of zest

No. 89 by Floris - The original James Bond Fragrance. A timeless classic perfect for any gentleman.

Upper Class by Royal Crown - What Cary Grant would wear if he was alive today.

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