A Simple Guide On How To Wear Pocket Squares

Pocket squares are one of the most versatile accessories a gentleman can have in his wardrobe. They come in a variety of colours and patterns, making them perfect for just about any occasion. No matter your style, there's a pocket square for you.

Understanding how to pick the right pocket square for your outfit isn't rocket science, but it does require some knowledge and thoughtful consideration. In this article, we will answer some questions about pocket squares and provide a quick guide on the pocket square styles you may see, in order from most to least formal.

A Quick Note On The Colour Wheel 

Putting an outfit together, no matter how casual or formal, can be a challenge. That's why we wrote an article on how to use and understand the colour wheel. Having a basic understanding of the colour wheel will help you create harmonious outfits that will turn heads. From monochromatic to tetradic themes to effectively incorporating hues and shades, following a visual guide will drastically reduce the amount of time spent choosing what to wear.

What Is The Best Material For Pocket Squares? 

The best pocket squares are ones made from natural materials including linen, silk, and wool. Although these materials will cost more than their synthetic counterparts, they will look better, hold their shape, and last much longer.

Lower quality pocket squares will be made from cotton or synthetic material like polyester. Cotton pocket squares crease easily, and synthetic ones tend to have an unnatural sheen that makes them look cheap. It's best to invest in quality products. Cry once about the price and you'll never have to worry about buying another one anytime soon.

Do You Always Need To Wear A Pocket Square When You Wear A Suit? 

There isn't a style rule that says you need to wear a pocket square with your suit, although we highly recommend wearing one. If you are wearing a sport jacket with odd trousers or even jeans, you can get away without one since the overall look of the outfit is very casual. A pocket square may cause your outfit to look too busy and attention-seeking, especially if you are wearing a patterned button-up shirt under your sport jacket.

A pocket square serves no purpose other than providing a decorative touch to your outfit. That being said, a splash of colour adds intrigue and personality. Plus, it can be a great conversation starter if it has an interesting pattern or fold.

Can You Put A Pocket Square In Your Coat Pocket? 

If you are wearing a formal coat like a peacoat or overcoat, you may have noticed it has a breast pocket similar to the one on your suit or sport jacket. It may be tempting to put a pocket square in it, but that pocket is actually better suited for other items. What items, you ask? Our article Should You Put A Pocket Square In Your Coat Pocket? answers that very question.

Can You Use A Handkerchief As A Pocket Square? 

Handkerchiefs and pocket squares are not the same thing. However, if you forget to put a pocket square in your suit, you can use a clean handkerchief in a pinch. We highly advise not using a soiled handkerchief, especially if you've blown your nose into it. If you do not have a clean handkerchief, it's best to not put anything in the pocket and go without a square.

Use Your Suit As Your Foundation

What pocket square you wear will depend on your suit or sport jacket. If your jacket is a dark colour like black, brown, charcoal, grey, navy blue, burgundy, etc., stick with other dark natural tones. If you want to go bold, have that bold colour be the border or the secondary or tertiary colour in the pocket square itself.

If your suit has a pattern like checks, windowpane, or houndstooth, avoid a pocket square with the same or similar pattern (in both size and design). Similar patterns and designs will prevent the pocket square from standing out, and it may look washed out or almost invisible.

NEVER Match Your Tie And Pocket Square 

Avoid exactly matching your tie and pocket square. Doing so reduces visual interest and makes your outfit look uninspired. Instead, complement your accessories by using a secondary or tertiary colour found in either the tie or pocket square. We have a helpful article titled Why You Should Never Match Your Tie And Pocket Square that goes into more detail and offers some suggestions.

The same rule applies for all types of neckwear including ascots and cravats, bow ties, and scarves.

Use The "+2" Style Rule

Note that formal pocket squares will work for any outfit, but less formal ones won't. We recommend using the "+2 Rule" when deciding on how bold your pocket square should be. The +2 Rule is simple: Think of a scale of 1-10 with 1 being the most formal and 10 being the most casual. Your pocket square should be only 2 points more casual than the rest of your outfit. If you're in doubt, try to match the same level or only go one point above.

A Quick Guide On The Formality Of Pocket Squares 

Here is a simple guide on the formality of pocket squares from most to least formal. The order isn't set in stone, so you won't get arrested by the style police should you wear a slightly more casual pocket square in a more formal setting. However, we do suggest paying close attention to the dress code (if there is one) for the event.

The Most Formal Type Of Pocket Square: Solid White 

Every intentionally well-dressed gentleman should own at least one solid white pocket square. These pocket squares are considered the most formal due to their contrast against the black suits worn at black- and white-tie events. They are also versatile. Dressed up or dressed down, a solid white pocket square will convey the message that you mean business.

Dark Solid-Coloured Pocket Squares And Solids With Borders

Darker colours are generally considered more formal than lighter colours. Dark blue, burgundy, forest green, and tans are all excellent choices to have, especially if you're wearing a black sport jacket.

Solid pocket squares with a coloured border are also a great choice. These pocket squares are usually white, but it isn't uncommon to see them in light blue or pastel colours with a ¼" border of a different, often contrasting, colour all the way around. The pop of colour gives visual appeal while the white keeps it in formal territory.

Small Repeating Patterns

Small repeating patterns add a level of depth to your outfit. From a distance, small repeating patterns may not be noticeable. They might even look completely different. But once you get closer, you'll see the array of small polka dots, stripes, diamonds, florals, or even classic patterns like houndstooth and gingham.

Large Repeating Patterns

Large repeating patterns are bolder than their smaller counterparts. These patterns are easily distinguishable from a distance and can be eye-catching. For these reasons, large repeating patterns are less formal than small repeating patterns.

Paisley Patterns

Paisleys come in a vast array of patterns, colour combinations, and sizes. Some paisley designs consist of small, single colour, wavy teardrops while other designs can be quite intricate involving numerous colours, sizes, and intricacies within the paisley design itself.

If you are going to incorporate some paisley into your outfit, pay attention to these details and use your best judgement.

The Least Formal Type Of Pocket Square: Large Prints And Designs

The most casual pocket squares are those with large prints and designs on them. These can be pictures or mosaics containing a plethora of different colours or prints of animals, cars, fish, skulls, etc. Some say that these large prints fall into the novelty category, but we disagree.

Depending on how you fold these types of pocket squares, you may be able to manage just one or two colours, but these squares are designed to be colourful and attention grabbing. The main downside to these pocket squares is that you will never be able to see the full design unless you have it out of your pocket and lying flat on a table.

How You Fold Your Pocket Square Matters

How you fold the pocket square is very important. A simple presidential fold is the most conservative and thus the most formal. Single-, two-, three-, and four-point folds lean progressively more informal. The more intricate (or even nonchalant) your pocket square is, the less formal it will be. A puff fold is considered casual but under the right circumstances can be pulled off in a formal setting.

Summary

Pocket squares are a valuable accessory that can take your outfit to the next level. Understanding the different levels of formality can help you choose one that won't make you stand out like a sore thumb. Be sure to experiment and try new and fun folds, too, as they can add a fun, unique twist to your style!

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