What You Need To Know Before Buying Your First Vintage Watch

If you find yourself intrigued by the idea of owning a vintage watch, you need to arm yourself with some essential knowledge before treading into unknown waters. There are a few things you need to know before buying your first vintage watch so that you don't end up getting scammed. Before we dive in, we would like to explain that vintage watches aren't the same as pre-owned or used watches. 

Vintage watches, as defined by the watch community, must be around 25 years old or older. (There is some variance depending on who you ask). Watches newer than 25 years old are considered pre-owned or used. On with the article:

Be Sure To Ask Lots Of Questions About The Vintage Watch Before Buying! 

Buying a vintage watch can be likened to buying a used car; it may look great from the outside but have a myriad of issues under the hood. If you cannot physically hold and inspect the watch in your hand before purchasing, then you have to ask the seller and trust they give you accurate and truthful answers.

A competent seller will be open to answering any of the following questions without hesitation and with full honesty:

• Does the watch run?

• When was it serviced last?

• Is it keeping adequate time?

• Are the parts original?

• Does it come with the box and papers?

• Does it come with a warranty? (Some authorized dealers will offer warranties on their pieces.)

• How long has the seller owned it?

• Is there any proof of authentication? (Tip: Longines offers certifications of authenticity for free on their website. Just fill out the form and it'll be mailed to you within a few weeks!)

Pro Buyers Tip: To prove legitimacy, ask for pictures of specific parts of the watch like the movement, of the hands set to a specific time, of your name written on a piece of paper with the current date beside the watch, and/or a specific item like a pen or fork in the picture.

If the seller is unable to give you clear answers or avoids the questions altogether, it's best to continue searching. If the seller seems pushy, just walk away.

You should also ask yourself: Can you trust the seller?

Any sincere, seasoned seller will tell you that shopping for a seller is just as important as buying the watch itself. A level of integrity and trust should build through the question period so that you feel confident that this person won't scam you.

If you're purchasing anything online, you should first research the seller. This includes reviewing customer feedback if the seller operates through websites like eBay or Amazon, asking for reference checks if you buy from people in forums or Facebook groups (asking the community if they've purchased anything from the seller before and what their experiences were like), and using your best judgement to determine if what they're selling is legitimate.

Vintage Watches Are Typically Smaller Than Modern Watches

You would be forgiven for assuming any vintage wristwatch is a women's model based on the smaller size. Back in those days, most men's wristwatches being produced were between 30-36 mm in diameter. Today, it's not uncommon to see watches boasting 44+ mm diameters and some even pushing 60 mm. That's like wearing a small plate on your wrist! As time progressed, so did the need for functionality on watches. 

Chronographs, slide rule bezels, and day/date functions began to take up additional real estate on the face of the watch, meaning that larger watch faces were needed to provide room to display these functions. Some brands still make watches in smaller sizes, but they are usually sized as "unisex".

Understand Vintage Watches Won't Be Perfect 

Almost all vintage watches have been worn during their lifetime. It's next to impossible to find a vintage watch in pristine condition with the box, papers, and any other goodies that initially came with it. They usually have at least a couple scratches, maybe a dent, and a bit of wear. The dial may be discoloured (referred to as patina in the watch community).

Older vintage watches of the non-diver variety won't have any water resistance. This means that even a shower or aggressive handwashing will cause water to get in and ruin it. Getting water in your watch is one of the worst things that can happen to it, along with these 10 other things you should never do to your watch.

The plus side of owning a worn watch is its history. If it could talk, it would have stories to tell. It may have an engraving on the back with someone's initials or full name, it could be a commemorative piece for 25 years of service with a company, or it could be a trench watch worn during a war. Regardless of its history, it can continue to live in good health on your wrist.

Doing Research On Vintage Watches Always Pays Off 

Websites such as Hamilton Chronicles and MyBulova are incredible resources when it comes to vintage Hamilton and Bulova watches, respectfully. These websites are essentially online catalogues of all the different timepieces those companies produced over the years meticulously organized so people well-versed and new alike can discover watches together.

Googling "[watch model] serial number lookup" and clicking on the first link will usually, depending on the watch company, bring you to a site chock full of information regarding movements and models of that watch brand. This is one of the easiest ways to tell if the movement inside the watch is authentic or fake.

Asking questions in watch forums and social media groups can help you determine if a piece is real or fake and the tell-tale signs of a knockoff. Just be aware that although these groups are usually quite friendly, some people like to gatekeep or troll others that aren't as educated in the topic.

Let's Be Real: There's A Lot Of Junk Out There You'll Have To Sift Through

The sale of counterfeit watches isn't just reserved for luxury brands like Rolex or Patek Phillippe. Dubious sellers from practically anywhere wanting to make some quick cash can create convincing counterfeit timepieces with ease. With modern machinery, it is becoming more and more difficult to spot fakes.

Pop-up e-commerce shops, shady websites, and WhatsApp invitations through social media promising luxury watches at ultra-affordable prices are giant red flags. You likely won't receive a product from these websites, and even if you did, it would lack the craftsmanship and quality expected in authentic timepieces.

Another type of fake watch is often referred to as "Frankenstein watches". Just like the name suggests, these are an amalgamation of parts sourced from different watches. They are usually easy to spot since something tends to look off. Often the dial will be an odd colour or look cheaply painted, the hands won't match the brand or style of the watch, or the watch will be for sale at an exceptionally low price. Which brings us to the next point:

If It Seems Too Good To Be True, It Most Likely Is 

There are true stories of people finding rare timepieces for $5 at flea markets and jumping on low-priced luxuries online (presumably because the seller doesn't know anything about watches and just tossed it up on Marketplace to make $20), but these are few and far between. This takes incredible skill and knowledge of timepieces combined with a knack for spotting fakes from a mile away.

When searching for vintage watches, you must use your knowledge of the piece you're looking for and also trust your gut. You may see a listing that's much cheaper than the others. It may seem perfect, but don't be a trigger-happy buyer! Slow down, step back, and read everything carefully. Remember to ask questions and gauge whether the seller is authentic based off the questions we reviewed earlier in this article.

Be Very Cautious Of "For Parts Or Repair" Vintage Watch Listings 

If you are searching for a specific model of vintage watch, you may come across listings that include the phrase "for parts or repair" in the listing or description. What this means is that the watch is not in running condition and may be missing some parts. If you don't do your research and purchase one of these listings, you will be severely disappointed when it arrives and doesn't run or is missing parts of the movement.

These listings are usually for hobbyists, watchmakers, or others who want to take a chance at repairing an old watch on their own. Depending on the age of the vintage watch, sourcing original parts can be difficult, so people who repair vintage watches will often purchase a second watch to use for parts when their main one stops working.

Even if the listing is cheap and everything looks okay, the overall cost to repair the watch could set you back much more than the watch's value. Unless it's a grail watch for which price means absolutely nothing, we highly suggest searching for one in working condition.

Vintage Watches Have Higher Maintenance Costs 

About 99% of watches made before 1980 did not contain batteries. Unless you owned an electric watch like an Accutron, the movement inside your vintage watch will likely be mechanical. These mechanical movements require extra love to keep them running.

Servicing your watch can be a simple as replacing a gasket or as complex as having it fully disassembled and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. Some watch experts swear that you must take your timepieces in every 5-7 years for regular service, but we partially disagree. 

If you are wearing your vintage watch daily, then take it in for regular service, but if you only wear it a few times a year, only take it in for servicing when you notice it stops keeping accurate time or becomes difficult to wind.

Similarly to a car engine, regular care and maintenance of your timepiece will help it continue running for many years to come. Improper care will cause more damage and could even break the movement beyond repair. If you feel like your vintage watch isn't performing as it should, take it to an expert. Do not try to fix the issue yourself.

More Complications = More Moving Parts = More Money

Most vintage watches on the market today have mechanical movements. This means they will have either a hand-winding movement or automatic movement. Neither types of these movements require a battery to work. They rely on small gears, springs, and levers to keep accurate time. 

Some these old movements did more than just tell you the time of day; they could tell you the day and date, provide a stopwatch functionality, and more. These different functions are called complications. Each complication requires more gears, springs, and levers on top of the ones used to just tell the time. More parts = more money to service and repair.

At The End Of The Day, Buy What You Like! 

There are certain gatekeepy people in the watch community that firmly believe that no watch collection is complete without a specific brand or model. Some social media influencers may try to convince you that only expensive luxury vintage pieces are worth owning. Don't listen to their foolishness. Listen to your heart and buy what you like. 

As the old saying goes "different strokes for different folks" so if you are drawn to a specific era of watch like Art Deco, Mid-Century Modern, WWII trench watches, or early chronographs, don't let others stop you from enjoying them. After all, you will be the one wearing it and enjoying it, not them.

Summary

Understanding the risks associated with buying your first vintage watch can protect you from frustration, regret, and possibly an empty wallet. Knowing what to look for, the questions to ask, and how to spot fakes will greatly reduce the chances of you ending up with something less than spectacular.

Vintage watches are an amazing part of the watch world, so go out there and enjoy them!

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