Fragrance Review: No. 89 by Floris

Picture yourself driving through the English countryside in your silver Aston Martin DB5. You pull up to a gated driveway. A security guard comes over and asks you for your name. You don't give your real name, of course; you give them an alias. They check the list on their clipboard and wave you through.

As the gates open and you drive on through, you press a button on your dashboard. You hear a small whir as the center console opens, revealing your secret weapons for this mission: a watch that has the ability to turn into a lifeboat, a pen that can take down enemy helicopters, and a bottle of No. 89 by Floris.

This is the ideal scenario for James Bond author, Ian Fleming, if he could live out the stories he wrote (probably). Why the bottle of No. 89, you ask? Well, back in the 1950s, Ian Fleming was a frequent customer of Floris. Mr. Fleming loved Floris so much he decided to mention them by name in 3 of his books: Moonraker (1955), Diamonds Are Forever (1956), and Dr. No (1958).

What was Ian Fleming's fragrance of choice from Floris? No. 89, of course. As the James Bond franchise grew, so did the idea that No. 89 was James Bond's fragrance. Having been released just one year before the first Bond novel was published, it's fitting that the well-dressed, charismatic hero of the series would be wearing the latest and greatest.

Who Is Behind It?

No. 89 was created in 1951 by Michel Bodenham, a 7^th generation perfumer in the Floris family. The name comes from the address of the store, 89 Jermyn Street in London. According to the Floris family, he worked in what was lovingly nicknamed "the mine", a room hidden two floors below the shop that is only accessible through a trap door (or so the story goes).

Floris itself was created by Juan Famenias Floris in 1730. For nearly 300 years, the Floris family has been creating some of the most luxurious fragrances to come out of England. The original shop remains in the same location, which you can visit if you ever find yourself in London.

Not only is Floris one of the oldest fragrance houses in England, but they are also the only perfumery to hold a Royal Warrant from the Queen along with 16 other Royal Warrants, including one from King George IV in 1820 (whose coat of arms proudly hangs at 89 Jermyn Street) and the Prince of Wales in 1880.

Note Breakdown: 

Top notes: Bergamot, lavender, neroli, nutmeg, orange, petitgrain

Middle notes: Rose, geranium, ylang-ylang

Base notes: Cedar, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver

Packaging:

No. 89 by Floris comes in a light blue box with a gold border. The name of the house and fragrance are listed inside a decorative gold shield in the middle of the box. Floris doesn't need fancy packaging; after all, when you're associated with spies, you don't want to blow your cover.

The bottle has the same decorative gold shield on the front with the same text as the label on the box. The bottle itself has some heft and is adorned with a gold cap inscribed on the top with the Floris logo. It's classy enough to easily double as a decoration you could keep on your bathroom counter as a visual display of your gentlemanly side.

Opening: 

As soon as the fragrance hits your skin, you're greeted with a mix of crisp, bitter citrus and barbershop soapiness. Within a minute or so, lavender begins to appear along with a very subtle spice that sits in the background. There are some muted powdery florals as well, but they sit below the citrus and lavender.

If you aren't used to vintage fragrances, you may find the opening to be a bit harsh, like lemon Pledge or shaving cream.

Development: 

As the fragrance opens up, I find the citrus loses its bitterness and transforms into a fresh cut lemon or freshly squeezed lemonade. There's a slight tartness to it, but it's nowhere near as strong as the opening. 

Once the initial citrus blast dies down, a mix of dry rose, lavender, and powdered florals appear. A soft touch of musk adds a slight smoky note to the mix. Under these notes sits a smooth base of cedar, sandalwood, and vetiver which holds everything together nicely.

Drydown: 

The longer this fragrance sits on skin, the better it gets. After an hour or so, the wood notes are more noticeable. Oakmoss and vetiver blend with the musk, creating a rugged base that nicely complements and contrasts the powdered florals and lavender.

There's a touch of aldehydes that gives No. 89 a luxurious soapiness that is distinct from the barbershop soapiness of the opening. Think of what you would find in a fancy tub or shower in the penthouse suite of a five-star hotel in London.

Performance: 

With three direct sprays to my neck and chest, No. 89 radiated beyond arm's length for the first 15 minutes or so before settling down to an arm's length scent. It became an elbow's length scent at around the three-hour mark. 

At six hours, it became a skin scent, and after around twelve hours, I could only smell the occasional faint whiff of citrus and musk.

When To Wear No. 89: 

Because of its citrus- and floral-forward composition, No. 89 by Floris is best suited for daytime wear. It should be worn dressed up but would work just fine with a polo and shorts if you are at an afternoon garden party on a hot summer day.

No. 89 works best in warmer months. You can start wearing it on warmer spring days and keep it in your rotation until the leaves start falling off the trees in autumn. Some people like to wear it in the winter to remind them of summer days, but we recommend choosing winter fragrances with darker notes.

Since this fragrance isn't as mass appealing as other, more modern fragrances, we recommend not wearing it on a first date. Some people may be put off by the barbershop, musk, and powdery composition since those notes aren't used as much these days.

Who Is This Fragrance For?

No. 89 by Floris leans towards an older demographic. Someone who may have had such experiences as jumping out of a plane without a parachute (but "borrowing" one mid-descent) or getting into a scuffle atop a cable car in Rio de Janeiro. Or sipping martinis, shaken not stirred, by the beach.

It would also work well for someone who appreciates vintage style and has a more refined taste when it comes to gentlemanly hobbies like cars, wines, and fragrances. A younger person could pull it off, but they may find it old fashioned and dated compared to other fragrances on the market.

Other notable fans of No. 89 have included Sir Winston Churchill, Sir Alec Guinness, and Cary Grant. Other celebrities like David Bowie and Marilyn Monroe also appreciated fragrances from the house of Floris.

Overall Thoughts On No. 89 By Floris 

Timeless, classic, and tied to one of the most famous spies the world has ever known, No. 89 by Floris is a quintessential vintage fragrance that still gets rave reviews even today, over 70 years later. If you are someone who appreciates timeless style, give this fragrance a try.

No. 89 isn't considered a masculine scent compared to most modern male fragrances, but it has stood the test of time and continues to appear on lists of classic, vintage, and gentlemanly fragrance lists rubbing elbows with other heavy hitters like Gentleman by Givenchy, Eau Sauvage by Dior, Vetiver by Guerlain, and Colonia by Acqua Di Parma.

Interested In Other Fragrance Reviews? Check Out: 

Liqueur BPM by L'Orchestre Parfum - Imagine walking into a fine cigar humidor with a cognac based cocktail in hand.

Speakeasy by Frapin - Fizzy mojito with smooth leather and sweet pipe tobacco with resinous honey.

Don by Xerjoff - Smells like what you'd expect a mafia boss to smell like.

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